Stone Valley Crags, Gairloch
Flowerdale Beag
Too Windy for Blood Suckers 10m Severe.
An eliminate up the wall between Cracking On and Central Crack. Use of either crack is not permitted for holds. Central Crack may be required for gear by the less bold.
J. Northover, S. Macfarlane. 2nd June 2011.Rowan Wall 10m Severe.
An eliminate up the wall to the right of Central Crack. The use of Central Crack and the crack line to the right is not permitted for holds or gear.
S. Macfarlane, J. Northover. 2nd June 2011.Cracking On 10m Very Difficult.
The first crack line left of Central Crack.
J. Northover, S. Macfarlane. 2nd June 2011.Central Crack 10m Very Difficult.
The most obvious and central crack line.
S. Macfarlane, J. Northover. 2nd June 2011.The Valley Walls
Windy Cracks 15m Severe.
In the bay beyond Three Stepped Slab is a short steep crack. Climb this and move slightly left to another hidden crack that continues to the top. The bottom crack is severe and the upper crack Difficult.
S. Macfarlane, J. Northover. 2nd June 2011.FarNorth Slab 15m VS 5a.
Just to the left of 'Round the Block' there is a slab with a corner on it's left. Climb the slab, which widens with height. Climb using the slab only and do not use the holds of the corner on the left or the higher holds of 'Round the Block' on the right. Corner used for gear lower down.
J. Northover, S. Macfarlane. 2nd July 2011.Game of 2 Halves 15m Hard Severe 4c.
To the left of the route above and to the left of the corner climb a steep rib to a platform. The start of the route involves a tricky bouldering move. From the platform avoid finishing left and climb the face to the right and up using bridging moves.
J. Northover, S. Macfarlane. 2nd July 2011.Chrysalis 12m VS 4c.
Start about 2m right of the bottom of the third crack. Climb up to a slabby bulge, pull up rightwards through middle of the bulge, then trend right over a sloping ledge to finish.
Rod Mackenzie, Elke Braun. 1 May 2011.Rum Doodle Crag
Rum Doodle Arete – Variation finish VS 4c.
Rather than walk off or climb a straightforward groove on the left a better finish is to climb the steep crack of the back wall.
J. Northover, S. Macfarlane. 1st May 2011.Stone Valley Crag
Arete Direct
Cheeseslice 10m Very Difficult.
To the left of 'Cheesegrater Slab' is a prominent crack. Climb the crack. S. Macfarlane, J. Northover. 3
Albatross 25m VS 4c.
A wandering and anti-social route. Climb the crack on the right edge of the slab of 'Touch and Go' and veer left up steps at the top of the crack to finish at a niche with the main slab. Traverse scross the main slab of 'Open Secret' to the finishing corner of 'Inside Information'. Climb this awkward corner (crux).
J. Northover, S. Macfarlane. 3rd July 2011
Gairloch North- Aztec Tower
Aztec Tower
Texcoco 15m HS 4b.
Climb up Warrior God to the middle ledge of that route then follow the obvious left diagonal crack which joins the upper part of Conquistador.
S. Macfarlane, J. Northover. 2nd October 2011.
We decided to re-name and re-grade a route that we submitted earlier in the year (and in the 2011 SMC Journal – it will be amended in the 2012 edition). We decided to re-name 'The Inca Trail' with 'Coatlicue' since the Incas were nothing to do with the Aztecs!
Re-named and re-graded route:
Coatlicue 15m HS 4b
Start at the base of Warrior God and follow the left diagonal crack out to the arete of Conquistador and then continue up the arete.
S. Macfarlane, J. Northover. 5th June 2011.
© Copyright 1997 - 2023 Ochils Mountaineering Club | Authors Retain Copyright For Their Submissions | If you Wish To Use Content From This Site Ask Us! Information on this site is provided as-is, with no guarantees either stated or implied about its accuracy or suitability. Your safety is your responsibility!
You can find our privacy policy here