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These two Lochaber giants can be easily bagged from the top station of the Nevis Range ski-lift. The “traditional” route from Glen Nevis, by contrast, provides a superb day out, which is one of the classic walks of the Central Highlands. It is best reserved for a clear day, both for its outstanding views and for the navigational difficulties on the descent to Coire Giubhsachan.

1) Follow the Glen Nevis road from the roundabout near the north end of Fort William to the car park at its end. Walk up the path through the steep wooded Nevis Gorge to emerge at Steall flats, with the Steall Falls, spectacular after rain, prominent on the south of the river. Follow the eroded path skirting the flats, noting the wire bridge which accesses Steall Hut on the other side of the River Nevis. Follow the path until a bridge over the Allt a’ Giubhsachan and the ruins of the old farmstead at Steall are reached.

2) It is possible to climb towards the coire cradled between Aonach Beag and its subsidiary top, Sgurr a’ Bhuic, then swing northward onto the Southwest ridge of Aonach Beag. However, the route leading more directly up Northeast from Steall towards Sgurr a’ Bhuic is superior, as there are ever-increasing views of the Mamores to the South to compensate for the steepness of the climb. There are a number of faint paths- keep aiming for the Southwest ridge of the Sgurr. Eventually you will arrive at the top of the Sgurr a’ Bhuic, from where can be seen the long wriggling spine of the Sgurrs Choinnich and the Grey Corries enclosing the northern side of upper Glen Nevis.

3) Descend fairly steeply to a col, traverse a subsidiary top, then climb to Stob Coire a’ Bhealach. From here follow the elegantly curving ridgeline northwest to the summit of Aonach Beag. Enjoy the vista; for to the West the great cliffs of the North face of Ben Nevis tower high above the Carn Mor Dearg Arête.

4) The way onward to Aonach Mor is straightforward in clear conditions- descend northwest to an obvious col. Climb gently again where the path onward to the summit is composed of two deeply eroded parallel trenches leading across the expansive, almost flat plateau. The substantial summit cairn is close to the steep west face of Aonach Mor, which is seamed with ribs and gullies. The tapered summit of Carn Mor Dearg now lies between the viewer and Ben Nevis, while the pinnacled East Ridge of Carn Dearg Mheadhonach may excite the interest of the scrambler or winter mountaineer. To the northwest a vast playground of peaks draws the eye, and a game of “name that hill” may ensue.

5) It’s time to return to one’s starting point. Head southward again, but diverge from the eroded “tram lines” to keep the western cliffs close. After 700 metres, a small cairn marking the top of a steep, eroded path can be seen. Follow the path down a vague rib to the watershed at the head of Coire Giubhsachan. In misty conditions, it is worth being patient and identifying the top of the path, and in winter conditions it is crucial, as the ground around is steep, at least a grade I winter climb (in descent). After a knee jarring descent you will find yourself at a wall marking the watershed between Coire Daim to the North and Coire Giubhsachan to the south.

6) Follow the path southward, through a delightful mixture of little waterfalls and grassy flats which are the haunt of red deer. Criss-cross the burn on several occasions, passing a boulderers’ playground of jumbled blocks discarded by receding glaciers on the final lip of the inner coire; splash down a few more muddy slopes, and the bridge at Steall ruin is soon in sight. From here, all that remains is the walk out down Glen Nevis. Your legs may be tired, but the scenery compensates for this on the way back to the car park.

The Western Flank of Aonach Mor In Winter