Approach
The peculiarly named Kamikaze Squirrel crag may be found within the Scottish Wildlife Trust’s reserve at Fankerton. To read an article about these climbs, click here.
History
The history of recorded climbing at the crag started with a short, poor route named Wee Chimney; a 4 metre 4b solo for Allan Wallace in 95. He returned in May 2003 with brother Raymond to put up a collection of 5 routes from Severe 4b to E1 5c. The first three routes in the book in the middle of the crag look excellent. The obvious and sinuous Carron Crack E1 5c looks superb and appears to be the classic of the crag.
New Routes
Wise Eskimo Severe 9m
FA 10/5/05 Stuart Macfarlane, John Dyble
Start right of the block at the left end of the crag on low slab. Move rightwards up left side of semi-detached pinnacle and continue up obvious right slanting crack to a hilarious finish over the cornice of vegetation using the tree on the left.
Ho, ho, ho! Funbags HVS 5a 7m
FA 10/5/05 John Dyble, Stuart Macfarlane
Start at the same place as previous route. Climb onto block on left and continue up leftwards under bulge to finish in a thin groove.
Death to the Greys E1 5b 9m
FA 31/5/05 John Dyble, Stuart Macfarlane
Climb the slab and thin crack between previous routes over poorly protected bulge at half height. Gear may be placed in the crack of Wise Eskimo. After a couple of hard moves, poor for the feet, finish more easily on left of tree.
Hippos in Space E2 5c 9m **
FA 31/5/05 John Dyble, Stuart Macfarlane
Start as for The Carronade and move up to overlap. Move out of recess through left side of overlap to the slab using the obvious poor hold. Pull onto sloping ledge and upwards to crozzly double pocket on right, great technical climbing. Finish straight up over even more hilarious finish. Crampons and axes recommended for finish!
Auf Wiedersehen Berg Heil! HVS 5a 10m *
FA 6/6/05 John Dyble, Stuart Macfarlane
Carronbridge climbs the left side of the wide mossy scoop. This route starts to its right and climbs the crack in the left-facing short corner to shelf. Continue upwards, place gear then traverse the obvious narrow footrail leftwards to reach the arête. Continue upwards to yet another hilarious finish.
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