The aim for the day was a 12 pitch bolted routed just above the campsite called Palavar les Flots. The four intrepid climbers from OMC were Stuart, Ian McC and the two Dave’s. At the foot of the first pitch it was decided youth before beauty – so Stuart and “Young Turk” Currie head off first, followed by Ian and “Not so Young” Dave Simpson. Read More...

WHAT A PALAVAR!

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The aim for the day was a 12 pitch bolted routed just above the campsite called Palavar les Flots. The four intrepid climbers from OMC were Stuart, Ian McC and the two Dave’s. At the foot of the first pitch it was decided youth before beauty – so Stuart and “Young Turk” Currie head off first, followed by Ian and “Not so Young” Dave Simpson.

The weather was shaping up to be a scorcher and the whole climb would be in full sun all day. “Good pitch” remarked Dave S at the third belay point. “Take a look at the next one!” came the response from Young Turk. There was Stuart doing his famed impression of Spiderman on what seemed like at hold-less near vertical slab! It looked daunting but as you got onto the slab holds became apparent and it was more exhilarating than scary.

It was turning into quite an international day as the Anglo-Scots pair of Dave & Ian were followed by Anglo-French group and then a couple of German climbers who proceeded to “parallel climb” through the other groups, much to everyone’s annoyance.

The crux pitch (led by Stuart & Ian respectively) was a delicate slab with very little for hands or feet but trust in the friction. That cleared the top beckoned … and the promised descent consisting of over 250m of abseil. After some discussion it was agreed that we would collaborate in a Anglo-Scots-Teutonic-French set of linked abseils to speed up the descent. So off Stuart went with 2 ropes dangling between his legs, followed by Ian, Dave & Dave similarly attired.

Drama at the 3^rd abseil point where “Butterfingers” Simpson drops his belay device whilst swapping ropes. A shocked exclamation followed by some deft juggling results in the belay device landing on his harness! Was it forewarning of further mishaps? At the 4^th abseil point, Stuart decided it was all going far too straight-forwardly and determined to make it more interesting. By the time we realised the “McFarlane Gully” was not the right way there were five of us sheltering from the loose rock fall!

Eventually the “annoying” Germans assisted and a traverse back onto the route was made. Further abseils in the quickly fading light and we could at last walk out … in the pitch black … with one headtorch between four! We were all grateful to see Mhairi, Lucy and Jenny with much appreciated water. John and Kai had orchestrated a marvellous evening meal, which was consumed by torchlight with several beers. A great day.

Dave Simpson