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Meet report for the Lundy Island climbing trip that took place from 5th-7th May 2007. Read More...
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Sing: I will drive 500 miles and I will drive 500 more to do some climbing on the coast in a far off place that I heard of most!
Introduction
After a while in the planning, a plan came together to head down to Lundy Island in the Bristol channel off the North Devon coast. It was to be a long weekend meet, leaving Stirling, Friday evening for a 500 mile trek down to Devon, getting the boat early Saturday morning, and then hopefully getting the best part of 3 days climbing in on the island before getting the boat back to Bideford, and making the 500 mile trek back to Stirling again. The climbing was reported to be excellent by previous visitors, and with a such a hectic weekend planned, it had better be!
The Lundy team consisted of: Dave M, Stuart M, Liz, Davey S, Iain F, Jen, Nigel, Lucy, Adrian, Rich, Rachel and Dave G. Dave G was attending to bag a sub-marilyn top on the island (at about 110M!).
The date was set: 5th-7th May. Here's how we got on...
Day 0 - Friday
Being from N.Devon, I grew up within sight of Lundy, but I never knew that there was any climbing on the island until I was introduced to the sport by the OMC! Lucy and myself decided to avoid the hectic weekend by heading down to Devon a few days beforehand and kip at my fathers. I managed to twist his arm into letting OMC members kip on his floor too. The first of the crowd turned up just after 10PM, with the last arriving safely by about 1am. Some beer was consumed, travel tales exchanged, and kip sought.
Day 1 - Saturday
We awoke at about 6AM, to some splendid weather - it was gonna be a good weekend! The ferry (Oldenburg) left from Bideford about half an hours drive away. We gathered with our huge selection of kit next to the boat while they loaded everything on board. We had to keep our kit with us as we were heading straight to the climbing on the island. The trip to the island took about 3 hours with the time spent admiring the views, eating bacon rolls and studying climbing books. Liz, armed with a monster pair of binoculars was looking out for birds (of the feathered variety).
Upon arrival we had a short but steep uphill climb, with the monster rucksacks full of climbing, camping and cooking equipment, up to the camp site on the top of the island. Most of us opted to pitch together, with Dave G pitching at the top of the field in a location he termed 'advance base camp'. It was actually within 10M vertical of his intended summit, and main reason for visiting!! Tents pitched, it was time to head to the first climb of the weekend, 'The Devils Slide'.
On the way out of the camp site, we checked upon Dave G to make sure that he had plenty of supplies for his summit attempt. He pointed out the top, visible 200M from his tent in the middle of a graveyard, spot height: 110M. The highest point on the island was actually the old lighthouse - I think Dave did this too just to ensure that the summit was well and truly bagged!
As you can see from the last photo, above, the situation at the top of the slide was spectacular, and the weather had done us proud! We scrambled down to the top of the 1st pitch of the slide and then abseiled down to the ledge at the start.
  
We were the only group on the 'Devils Slide' that day which was just as well because we caused a fair queue by ourselves! Being a novice, I teamed up with Adrian and Dave M. Dave lead the first pitch back up to the boulder that we had abseiled from earlier. We had a wee wait here for the other teams to move off, but since the top, and hence the bags and food was accessible I popped up for refreshments!
   
Adrian lead the second pitch which was more interesting than the 1st, and also had more gear on it! I followed with Dave M coming up last and climbing through. The top pitch had what was termed a 'Dainty Traverse' which felt very exposed. Very grippy rock, but no decent holds for your hands. The route finnished with a change of climbing style topping out over a bunch of stacked boulders.
   
By the time we had all topped out, it was about 7PM, and time for food/beer in the islands pub. The grub was excellent, and the local brew was pretty good too! The toilets were an open-air affair with views out to sea! The generators were switched off at midnight which signalled that it was time for bed!
Day 2 - Sunday
After a hearty breakfast of bacon and beans the various teams headed off to various parts of the island to bag various different climbs. Lucy and myself headed off with Iain F and Davey S. We intended to do Alloutette (S) while Iain and Davey were going to do 'Horseman's Route' (HS). The descent to the start of the route began at the old fog battery (where the cannons were still in place).
 
The descent route looked quite intimidating from the top. Davey went first, belayed by Iain, placing gear as he went. Next, it was mine and (a rather nervous) Lucy's turn, with iain coming down last on the gear. The bottom of the cliff looked normal enough, until we traversed around the other side, and found ourselves in another spectacular situation. We had unknowingly downclimbed over the arch.
 
Myself and Lucy then climbed Allouette with Lucy leading the 1st pitch and me leading the second. Davey and Iain climbed Horsemans Route opposite with Davey leading the first pitch and Iain leading the second. We were later joined by Adrian and Dave M who also did Horsemans Route.
Iain/ Davey On Horsemans:
  
Adrian/Dave M On Horsemans:
  
That eveving, the weather was turning for the worse. We all retired to the pub for food/beer and to chat about the days adventures. After getting kicked out of the pub we retired to the kitchen area on the camp site where Iain produced two bottles of wine. Lucy proceeded to consume the vast majority of this! The weather was by now wild, and had taken its toll on Adrian and Davie's tent which had a huge rip down the side. Come lights out (i,e when the Genny went off again!) we headed to our respective tents, while Adrian and Davey headed to the islands museum to kip instead! I was nodding off when a very wet, and very drunken loopster decided to join me head first still in hiking boots!
  
Day 3 - Monday
The following morning we were greeted my fog, and the news was that the boat was not going to sail, and we would be helicoptered back to the mainland (£20 surcharge each, but a very cheap chopper flight!). The weather picked up during the morning, but the tides were such that the Oldenburg could not sail. We all got our times for the chopper pickup, and then headed off for a bit of a walk around the island.
  
  
It was a shame not to have been able to climb on the Monday, but we did manage two fantastic days climbing beforehand. I have to say that the helicopter ride was well worth the £20 especially as the weather had picked up significantly throughout the day. All in all, a fantastic wee break and worth the 1000 mile round trip! Myself and Lucy spent another night down in Devon, returning via the lakes on Tuesday. Other club members headed up the road, some making it all the way home and turning up for work the following morning! I'll sign off with a few pics from the helicopter trip.
   
Thanks To
- Dave Monteith for doing all the planning/organisation
- My old man for letting us doss on his floor
- Adrian/Dave for dragging me up the Devils Slide!
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