Ben Davison climbs Pata Negra, 8c
19 year old Ben Davison from Alnwick, has just climbed Pata Negra, 8c, in Rodellar, Spain. This is Ben's first 8c, made all the more impressive by the fact that 3 years ago, he had never before put a pair of rock boots on...
VIDEO: Nalle Hukkataival vs La Force Tranquille, ~8C
Nalle Hukkataival has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods' La Force Tranquille, ~8C, at Magic Wood/Averstal, Switzerland.
On his blog, Nalle writes that he "...tried it one day 4 weeks ago when everything was all wet, and now banged it out in two days with no time to rest!" and that he"...took a devastating fall from the easy top-out because a hold broke, but managed to pull it together and climb it again next try all the way to the top!"
In a text message he elaborates further:...
VIDEO: Miss Schweiz by Jimmy Webb
Jimmy Webb and friends spent some time in Ticino in March/April this year, racking quite some cutting edga ascents.
Most of the time, the weather wasn't ideal and a couple of weeks into the trip, Jimmy tore his hamstring.
This din't slow him down much, if at all, though as you can see for yourselves in this video.
- Dreamtime, ~8C (Fabian Bühl)
- Off the wagon, ~8B+
- Ninja skills, ~8B+
- La Rustica. ~8B+ (FA)
and several more. including a couple of 8A's by Kasia...
VIDEO: Change backstage
Right now, Petr Pavlicek is hard at work, editing the footage of his second Adam Ondra documentary, The Change movie. Until then, here is a video about the making of that movie.
When I had the opportunity of watching this a while back, I was blown away, and this re-edited version is even better!
Adam Ondra is sponsored by:
Nalle Hukkataival finally got it - The Understanding
Nalle Hukkataival, from Helsinki, Finland, has made the first ascent of one of the most longstanding projects at Magic Wood in the Graubündener Averstal, Switzerland.
The Understanding is one of the most striking lines in the area, and also one of the first to be cleaned and brushed back when it was discovered more than a decade ago by the likes of Thomas "Steini" Steinbrugger, Bernd Zangerl and friends. I know for a fact Nalle was there as early as 2004, because I told him the beta for...
FRI NIGHT VID: George Carmichael - Mecca 8b+
This week's Friday Nighter is from Patrick Taylor.
He introduces his video on Vimeo: "A video short of George Carmichael climbing the Raven Tor classic 'Mecca'. A short and very powerful route, George had roughly six sessions before climbing the 8b+ test piece.
1st Free Ascent of Birthright for Helliker and Bracey
On the 7th June, Alpinists Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey made a rare repeat of Birthright, V 6, 4c, A2, 450m on the Grand Charmoz, Chamonix. It is thought to possibly be the 2nd ascent of the line but the 1st Free ascent. Birthright was first climbed 20 years ago by Mark Twight and Scott Backes...
Vail World Cup Round Up
Just five days after the World Cup in Hamilton and the athletes were back into the thick of the action; this time in the clean, luxurious mountain town of Vail, Colorado...
VIDEO: Alizée Dufraisse giving it all
Lately, Alizée Dufraisse has shifted her focus more and more towards climbing hard routes on rock. In particular, she has been spending a lot of time at Siurana, where her main goal is to make the first female repeat of La Rambla original, 9a+.
Working towards her goal, she has already repeated routes like La reina mora, 8c+/9a, Patinoso, 8c+, and El Rastro, 8c+.
In this video she talks about what climbing hard routes means to her.
Alizée Dufraisse is sponsored by: , , , , and
Multiple E7+ Onsights at Cloggy
During the recent spell of dry weather, the mountains of North Wales have seen some frenzied attention from a number of strong teams, with the bulk of the action happening at Clogwyn d'ur Arddu, high up on the slopes of Snowdon. Many hard routes have been ticked in extremely impressive style; Authentic Desire, E7 6b, Shaft of a Dead Man, E7 6b, and It'll Be Alright on the Night, E7 6b, all getting onsight ascents and Margins of the Mind, E7/8 6c, recieving a very good onsight effort...
Pump up the Jam, 8c, for Pete Robins
Pete Robins has just climbed an old project in Pigeon's Cave, on the Great Orme, Llandudno, to give Pump up the Jam, 8c.
The future of bouldering?
What does the future of bouldering look like?
Obviously, this is impossible to know, but here UKC News editor Bjorn Pohl speculates a bit...
Yorkshire Area Report - June 2013
A lot has been going down over the last six months in Yorkshire, hard boulders, bolt routes and E grades all getting done by an undeniably strong scene, with font 8B and ground up E7 ascents almost becoming commonplace.
The only question left to ask is what will the Limestone Season bring..?
GB Junior Bouldering Team take on Europe
On Thursday the 23rd of May the newly formed GB Junior Bouldering Team travelled to Grindelwald in Switzerland to take part in their first ever European Youth Championships.
With the 2013 comp season now finally underway the spotlight was to fall on the GB Junior Bouldering team as they travelled to take on some of the strongest countries in Europe at the first ever IFSC European Youth Championships (EYC).
FRI NI VID: Dave Macleod - Fight The Feeling - 8c+/9a
This week we have Dave MacLeod as our Friday night star. Here he is on his own Glen Nevis masterpiece - Fight The Feeling 8c+/9a.