The Ochils Mountaineering Club

I'm heading off to the Alps (Saas Fee) later this month and was wondering if any of the more experienced mountaineers had any useful advice?

Regards,

Niall.

Andy the Post and I were there last year. We camped at Saas Grund, there are a couple of campsites close to and up from the village. If I recollect, Saas Fee doesn't have a campsite anymore, I could be wrong though. Saas Fee is more upmarket than Saas Grund but, if my memory serves me right, it does have a very lively underground bar it was a lot more lively than the bars in Saas Grund, which was a very quite village with not a lot happening, I think it livens up when the Skiing season is on.

Okay, lets move onto the hills. We acclimatised first with the West-North-West ridge of the Allalinhorn (4,027m). You can get ski lifts and the metro up to the Mittel Allalin from Saas Fee. That leaves a short walk to the top where the biggest danger is from wee tots on skis! There's a lovely revolving restaurant when you get back down for apre walk drinks. If you don't fancy starting of with a 4000m peak (not recommended if you've never been that high before or had the required training - see Andy for training info ) then you could start with an easy walk up the East Flank of the Mittaghorn (3,143m). Other peaks that may be of interest are the usual suspects of Weissmeiss, Lagginhorn & Strahlhorn. Also consider some of the neighbouring valleys as the public transport network is superb. Fell free to talk to Andy or myself for further info.

Thanks for this Stu.

What are the major differences between Scottish mountaineering and Alpine? Is there anything I should be doing out there that is not normally part-off the mountaineering I'm use to. Is there anything I definitely should not do which I may be used to doing, but would not be recomended in the Alps?

Regards,

Niall.

From my limited, Alpine experience, the age-old pointer of early starts from huts and valley bases is vital - not only does this leave a good margin for wee problems if they arise but having got up early other plans can be thought-up if the weather is putting a downer on your original aim.

Moving efficiently and fluently on mixed terrain (particularly avoiding the over-cautious Brit. disease of pitching everything) is also a skill not easily practised in UK; it is a lack of skill in this area that often means ambitious plans are scuppered by under estimating how long routes will take to complete.

I would certainly not recommend using anything but a max. of 40m x 10.2mm rope. Early popular Alpine adventures rarely need a 50m of rope, unless that's all you've got. Certainly, don't burden your party with 2 x half ropes: you'll only need these if you are intending to lead climb on steep ground with leader-placed or fixed protection and you're taking a modest leader's rack of pro.(Most PD / AD climbs now have fixed pro. because the routes are hevaily used by Guides)

Frequently, over-looked is the need for good sunscreen and effective sunglasses: goggles will do if you have them from Scottish winters but they are awkward in the heat of an Alpine sun.

Go out to enjoy, savour and remember the good life on and off the hills; so plan modest adventures: over-ambition can ruin early Alpine trips.

aye, AndyC

Thanks Andy,

Regards,

Niall.

Another couple of things:

Always drink lots at altitude, very important, Andy & I have always been very particular in this matter.

Also, make sure you've some glacier sunglasses (cat 4) as the glare from a sunny day on the snow fields can be fierce. On that topic make sure you use suncream.

Oops, I failed to see that Andy has quite rightly covered the sunglasses part. Also echo Andy's comments on early starts, essential on glaciated mountains.

Andy/Stu,

Thanks for the advice, I'm just back in Scotland now after 2 weeks hard in the Saas Fee area. I've past the military Alpine Mountain Proficency course on the first week and managed to taken in; the Balfrin Ridge, Ulrichorn, and Allalinhorn with two attempts on the Nadlehorn were stopped by fresh snow! I'll just save that for next season then.

Regards,

Niall.